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Yes, forgot to include the spring info. Spring I.D, is 0.488 and the O.D. is 0.812. I should also mention that the aluminum ferruel will not have full contact with the fender washer due to distortion as a result of crimping it to the wire rope. Thanks.Baluncore said:Failure of the washer will depend on the unspecified inside diameter of the helical spring.
If it isn't, just use 2 or 3 of them.nation99 said:You probably have guessed by now that I'm a DIYer and not an engineer. That being said, I do understand what you are suggesting is a possibility. Thus my original question...will the fender washer be stiff enough to maintain the load that it will see?
If you have ignored the obvious failure modes, and so build a house of cards, that design failure may later be investigated by a Coroner.nation99 said:Thus my original question...will the fender washer be stiff enough to maintain the load that it will see?
I believe that it will be stiff enough, but the assembly will not be stable, as mentioned above.nation99 said:... Thus my original question...will the fender washer be stiff enough to maintain the load that it will see?
@nation99 this would be a good approach. Maybe you or a friend has a lathe, these could be turned up in a matter of minutes. I would volunteer to do it for you but my lathe is out of service, I'm looking for a new motor...Baluncore said:I would design a stepped seat to replace the fender washer.
Thank you for your time and thoughts. The springs are plain and ground ends. I agree that installing a sleeve between the wire rope and the spring I.D. will add stability. All I want to do is to maintain tension on the wire rope and the spring is there to compensate for slight movement of the surrounding/supporting structure (treated wood). I'll continue looking for washers that may be a bit thicker. Thanks again!!Lnewqban said:I believe that it will be stiff enough, but the assembly will not be stable, as mentioned above.
I have created a scale drawing with the dimensions that you have provided.
Note how the magenta spring is free to move toward the right and go over the outside diameter of your washer.
At a glance, that washer is the only member of your assembly that looks marginally able to match the other beefy elements.
Another factor that may make things worse is the non-flat bottom of that heavy duty spring (if the spiral ends have not been squared and ground to be flat), which will transfer the load completely off-center to the washer, which will not remain horizontal.
Note how commercial spring hangers, rather than flat washers, have spring cups at both ends of the spring, in order to avoid the discussed problem.
As you don't have those metal cups, a simple rubber sleeve located inside the spring, having the proper OD and ID, could greatly help with stability.View attachment 333644
View attachment 333645
View attachment 333643
How much play are you expecting? @Baluncore has the right idea when he suggests a stack of Belleville washers for this amount of force.nation99 said:All I want to do is to maintain tension on the wire rope and the spring is there to compensate for slight movement of the surrounding/supporting structure (treated wood).
I chose this spring because it provides a range of tension that is appropriate for the application when it is at the mid range of travel which is 0.200"...0.400 from full length to solid length. Belleville washers would be a good option, but I think the cost of the washers required to get that amount of travel would be cost prohibitive.Nugatory said:How much play are you expecting? @Baluncore has the right idea when he suggests a stack of Belleville washers for this amount of force.